『Sings』"Kitaguchi's style and passion for apparel"
Could you tell us what experiences you have had and why you decided to start "Signs"?
Kitaguchi-san (hereinafter, abbreviated titles)
When I was a university student, I first learned about the existence of "independent select shops," first as a customer, then as a part-timer. When I was in university, I didn't really have a clear idea of what I wanted to be.
Uchimura
Did you major in fashion in college?
North Exit
No, no, I was in the business department. I got interested in fashion because of my older brother and other relatives. I spent all my New Year's money on clothes (laughs).
Uchimura
Was there a particular brand that first got you interested in fashion?
North Exit
It's a Ralph Lauren button-down shirt I bought when I was in junior high school! At first, I wanted that Ralph Lauren logo (laughs).
But a young man who worked at Beams at the time advised me, "You probably won't need the Ralph Lauren logo later, so you should definitely buy the one without it," so I believed him and bought the one. By chance, I met the young man again after I became a university student, and I was so happy that he remembered from back then. I also understood the value of not having a logo by then, so I told him how grateful I was.
I was very happy that he thought so far ahead and gave advice to a junior high school student, and it also helped him to deepen his relationship with clothing. Looking back, I think that may have been a big turning point.
At that time, Kumamoto had a lot of individual select shops. In the past, shops like Blaze were a prime example. Shower Street is said to be the birthplace of select shops, but the store clerks were more intimidating than the customers, and it was scary to even spread out your clothes; it had an atmosphere that made it hard to enter. But there was a strong attraction to the place, and I decided to work at a small select shop instead of a big store.
Uchimura
Is that a select shop in Kumamoto?
North Exit
That's right, the store in Kumamoto. I was invited to work there just before graduating from university, and I started working there. Shortly after that, even though I was still a student, I got a sudden call in the morning saying, "Could you come to Beams in Harajuku now?" I was surprised because at the time I had never been to Tokyo, let alone been on a plane (laughs).
I sensed the president's high expectations of me, so I decided to go ahead and take the job.
Uchimura
These intense encounters with people, things, and spaces are what connect us to the present.
By the way, I also like Ralph Lauren and wanted a shirt with a logo on it, so I was recommended one with the logo on it as I had hoped (lol)
Listening to your story, I feel the high quality of the apparel store staff in Kumamoto.
North Exit
It was like, "Sell people" instead of "selling products." No one has actually told me that, but maybe the atmosphere of the individual stores in Kumamoto made me think that way.
Could you tell us about your passion for fashion? Also, could you tell us about your relationships with customers through fashion?
North Exit
Rather than following trends, I'd say it's more about "passion rather than fashion" and I want to express my own feelings clearly.
Uchimura
The idea of "passion, not fashion" is a wonderful thing!
North Exit
I see myself as a mannequin, so I have a very simple style of just wearing whatever I like and selling it.
Uchimura
Rather than being bound by trends or specific themes, Kitaguchi himself is the mannequin and represents the image of Signs.
North Exit
That's how it is. However, sometimes I coordinate my outfits and I have the urge to fixate on certain items, like "I want a white T-shirt!". Making that happen raises my spirits, so I think it's pretty important.
Uchimura
Are there times when you feel the urge?
North Exit
It feels like it just comes to you out of nowhere! I feel like a lot of designers also create things based on the excitement they feel at the time.
Most of the customers who come to Signs are not so much interested in the brand, but rather in the people. Many of them go beyond themselves and become friends with the designers.
For example, instead of asking "Do you have any KENETTH FIELD items in stock?", I'd ask the designer's name, "Do you have any items from Kusano's store in stock?" That's how close the customers are to me. I feel like I'm more of a hub that connects the designers and the customers. I think that's what Signs is all about.
Uchimura
Do designers and customers get together at events or something?
North Exit
That's right. Anyway, the distance between the client and the designer is very close. We communicate directly on LINE. I guess there are roughly 20 people that I'm connected to in that way.
Uchimura
That's an incredible number of people! (laughs)
By the way, will I still have to purchase it from Signs?
North Exit
That's usually the case, but sometimes people who want to experience the brand's unique worldview buy from our directly managed stores. But sometimes they take photos of those purchases and send them to me on LINE (laughs).
Anyway, I think the most important thing is for our customers to have fun.
Uchimura
I learned a new meaning to hosting events.
North Exit
However, maybe it's because Kumamoto has a distinctive, "Wasamon" temperament. In Kumamoto dialect, you get the impression that they are attention-seeking and sensitive to trends. Also, I get the impression that many people pursue things when they learn about them.
Uchimura
I see! So, while we are grateful to Kitaguchi for giving us the opportunity to learn about these things, many people also have the inquisitiveness to get to know and meet the people who make them, which is why things end up like this.
North Exit
That's how I feel too. I wonder, pop-up events are like a "festival."
I heard that the "Signs" store was renovated last year. What prompted this, and what elements have been incorporated into the atmosphere and space?
North Exit
We had previously opened Debby on the second floor in this location, and there was a shrine next door, so we felt it was a comfortable place with a nice breeze passing through, and that was a big reason for choosing this place. There was also a garden on the first floor, and we were told we could do whatever we wanted with the interior, so we made the decision right away.
Uchimura
A restaurant with a garden is wonderful! I envy them too.
North Exit
I happened to be working with a workwear brand named after the plant SASSAFRAS, and my father loved plants and had pine trees planted at my parents' house, so I thought it would be nice to have a connection to that as well.
Uchimura
There were also Derek Jarman's books on display in the store. Are you a fan?
North Exit
Yes, I like it and I admire it (laughs).
But I'm ashamed to say that I had never taken care of the garden before I got it. When I tried it, I realized that I like taking care of the garden, and now I enjoy it a lot.
Uchimura
Are there any particular features of the store?
North Exit
There are still many changes I want to make, but I wanted to use solid wood to connect with the garden, and I deliberately used plywood on the walls. Also, because there is no facade inside the building, I created an inner window at the entrance, creating a space for a little expression.
Uchimura
Even in a building, having a window makes a good impression and creates a store-like atmosphere. It's really comfortable, and I can understand why customers can't help but want to visit.
North Exit
It's more like a pre-party, with some customers stopping by to drink from around 5pm (laughs).
Uchimura
In addition to the way you create this space, it seems like Kitaguchi-san always goes for the straightforward approach he likes to take, but were you able to stick to that from the start, or were there times when you seemed like you might waver?
North Exit
I had 16 years of experience in my previous job, so I didn't have to waver that much. I have a vague idea of what sells and what becomes a trend, but those things are fleeting and disappear after 2-3 years.
Many men's customers want to use their clothes for a long time, and they often say they want the same pair of chinos they bought 10 years ago. But there aren't many brands that have been making the same items for 10 years. However, there are some hardcore brands, such as Sans limite and TUKI, that stubbornly continue to make the same items. With those brands, you can buy the same items at any time, so we wanted to narrow it down to those brands to a certain extent and offer a specialty store feel.
Uchimura
I see. That's a very interesting story. Before you opened the store Signs, you had about 25 years of experience, from shopping in junior high school to a private select shop, and you were able to see the results, so you were able to continue running for the past 10 years without wavering.
North Exit
Maybe that's why he was able to play a straight game without wavering.
Uchimura
While I understand the benefits of classic items that have been around for 10 years, don't you think people might get bored of them if they keep wearing the same thing for too long?
North Exit
Of course, not all items are standard items, but for example, it's not the case that you wear a standard item until it's worn out and then buy another one. If you like it, you tend to buy different materials or colors within the season or every season, so the purchasing cycle is surprisingly short.
Uchimura
I see, even though they are classic items, they are not all exactly the same. By changing the materials and colors, you can create items that people won't get tired of.
North Exit
It's the idea of "buying more."
Uchimura
That's a great idea. Of course, classics have their own appeal as classics, but if you leave them at that, they lose their freshness. You can make slight changes while keeping the essence the same. That's how you maintain freshness.
I feel like this is also relevant to my selection of vintage watches, and it's been a great learning experience for me to stay on track with my future direction.
North Exit
As we were talking, I was thinking, even though you call it a straight ball, maybe you change your grip a little and use pitches like a two-seam or natural shoot (laughs).
Uchimura
I totally understand that (lol)
Could you tell us what you're thinking about when you're at the store and how you spend your days off?
North Exit
Before opening the shop, I used to surf and do other things, but I haven't done anything in particular in the last 10 years...I've been so focused on keeping the shop going.
Uchimura
You've been running for the past 10 years, I totally get it! Even on days when the store is closed, you're still thinking about the store, right?
North Exit
That's right. I think the most important thing is to keep going.
When I left my previous job, the manufacturer told me, "You have to keep going from now on." I didn't understand that at the time, but now I understand what they meant. I had children, so I really didn't have the time.
Uchimura
He continued to run both as a father and as a shop owner!
North Exit
Thinking back, that was certainly the case. I think I've made progress in raising my children and running the store, so I'd like to have some time for myself now.
Uchimura
Is there anything you want to do in the future?
North Exit
I've seen Debby Fujikawa travel to so many different places, so I want to go overseas too. Since I started the shop, I haven't been able to go at all.
Uchimura
As Fujikawa-san also mentioned, does that also lead to you wanting to have more input?
North Exit
That's right. I want to experience something different from usual.
Uchimura
By the way, is there anywhere you want to go?
North Exit
I want to go to Alaska! I've always wanted to see the Aurora Borealis, but I never had the chance to go (laughs).
My child is currently in Canada, so I'm thinking about going there and watching some Major League Baseball games.
Uchimura
I'd like to talk to you again when I go! I had a very informative talk. Thank you for today!