藤戸剛【FUJITOデザイナー】× 内村太郎【内村時計店3代目】スペシャル対談 後編

Special talk between Tsuyoshi Fujito (FUJITO Designer) and Taro Uchimura (3rd Generation Owner of Uchimura Watch Shop) Part 2

I believe that the personality and story of a brand play a major role in its success. Could you tell us about the personality and story of your brand, FUJITO?

 

Fujito 

No, there isn't. Personality is something that is added later by the media. To be honest, I don't really care about appearances or interesting dialects. In the end, it's just a product, isn't it? Products have power, and if they don't sell, there's nothing we can do. Even if people say we're really funny, it's meaningless if they can't wear the clothes we make.

Uchimura

That's certainly true. The background, story, and philosophy are all things that are built up as you create a brand.

Fujito

Well, yeah. If the brand didn't exist in the first place, no one would be interested. So it's a chicken-and-egg question, and I want to be featured with the product in mind. It's just that we have to go out in public like this in order to have the product featured. On top of that, I'd be happy if even one person would appreciate my personality and think, "I'd like to go and check it out."

Uchimura

Since essence does not lie in human nature or story, but rather in things, it's just a little something extra.

Fujito

That's what I think. I'm not famous, and I don't want to be. I sell clothes and I'm in the distribution business. It doesn't really matter if I'm popular. (laughs) As you say, when the brand started to become more well-known, some people might find your answer interesting when they ask you questions, or they might say, "Wow, it's amazing that you had that kind of background ." I think everyone feels that way. Otherwise, it becomes a story of spending money to create something. Of course, nowadays there may be ways to build connections by introducing people and making encounters, but in the countryside there were no opportunities like that, so I couldn't use my magic. (laughs)

Uchimura

Magic! (laughs) You are a thorough stickler for the essence, Mr. Fujito. But I feel like I've seen a lot of brands using that kind of magic recently. What do you think about that?

Fujito

If I had been in a place where I could use it, I would have used it, so I think that's fine. But I didn't have it in my place. I had no choice but to work hard, and as a result, I ended up thinking in an essential way. Now I'm glad that this has led to sustainability.

Uchimura

Is the good thing about the countryside that things can move at a slower pace than in Tokyo?

Fujito

That's how I feel, and I think that's the charm of a place like Fukuoka. Of course, I think each region has its own characteristics. Maybe it's because I'm a pretty persistent person. (laughs)

When we met before, you mentioned that you have a love for vintage items, but avoid excessive worship. What aspects do you consider important to maintain a balance between tradition (vintage) and innovation (modern) in your designs?

 

Fujito

First of all, if it is correct to call it a replica brand, I try not to be like that. The reason is that I don't look good in it. Even vintage clothes don't look good on me these days. When you're approaching 50, you start to like vintage clothes. It 's like they don't have a sense of freedom.

Uchimura

Do you think that would make it look like cosplay?

Fujito

That's true, but I'm already old, so I've become strangely addicted to it and can't stop! (laughs)

Uchimura

I see (laughs). So when you were younger, vintage clothing was a way to break up an outfit.

Fujito

"You're young but you're wearing something cool" or "I see what you're wearing" I used to think that kind of contrast was fashion, but now it fits me perfectly! (laughs)

Of course, I still buy secondhand clothes, but that's because I think it's important to take the details of secondhand clothes as reference and incorporate them into my own clothes or make use of them. If there is something like a scent that secondhand clothes give off, I feel like I'm picking up that scent and expressing it through the details. If the knitwear that Uchimura-san bought for me has details that make secondhand lovers chuckle, then that's fine. There's no need to declare it in a big way, and I think it's best if people wear it simply because the clothes are cute or interesting.


So, I want you to wear it every day! I don't think you need FUJITO clothes that much when you feel like you want to look your best when you go out in the morning. I think that our customers have always chosen FUJITO clothes as an item that somehow enhances their sense of exhilaration while still wearing their everyday clothes, so we have found that position.

Uchimura

When you launched 20 years ago, were there more vintage elements?

 

Fujito

Yes. I think it could have been stronger, but I think they managed to reduce it somehow.

 

Uchimura

I see. So your minimalist approach is something that influences not only people who are interested in vintage clothing, but also people who just enjoy clothing in general?

Fujito

I hope so , and I've been continuing to do so ever since. (laughs) Come to think of it, Japanese watches have also been taking that approach to foreign watches, which are the roots of watchmaking. I read Uchimura's article, and it was very interesting to hear that there was a time when the development of the contents (movement) made it possible to surpass overseas watches. I found it instructive to see how, while still cherishing something like the original roots, you could change the place of your battle a little and make it here. So I was thinking, is there a theory that the focus on the quality of the contents (movement) was due to the quality of the iron?

Uchimura

Yes, that certainly seems possible. Apparently the density of iron at that time was incredible. That would lead to less wear on the metal and things like that.

 

Fujito

That's right. Given this background, I think this event has a certain affinity. Can I have a look at the watch?

 

Uchimura

Please take a look. This watch is about 50 years old, so it is considered vintage, but in a good way, the vintage feel is subdued and I think it will not interfere with modern coordination.

Fujito

That's true. If you look closely, you'll see that the crown is flush and fits nicely, so it's actually easy to wear. I think it also depends on your body type, like mine, but I think this case size is just right. It fits over your shirt cuffs and goes well with a jacket, so it's really nice. What is the most common case size these days ?

Uchimura

There are many watches that are over 40mm thick, and it's rare to find one that's thin. I've heard that safety standards, such as durability when dropped, are now set, and designs are created based on those standards, so it's difficult to make them thin. I think that 's one of the charms that only vintage watches have.

 

Fujito

That's right. Going back to the topic of prioritizing sustainability that I mentioned earlier, I think the main theme of manufacturing and products is determined by the background of the times. Currently, the trend is toward safety standards and compliance, so we are not fully attacking them.

 

Uchimura

You are certainly right that manufacturing adapts to the changing times.

 

Fujito

I brought my favorite watch today, this is the Inter Mark 11, and I was looking for a size of 34mm to 36mm and I ended up with this one. But it's a pilot watch, so it's thick. It's really cute, but it's a bit heavy to wear on a daily basis. That's why I was really impressed with the custom dial of the Lord Marvel that I was shown this time. But I think this is a bit of a no-no for fundamentalists. (laughs) It's like, have they already redone it?

 

Uchimura

I'm sure they would say it's no good. (laughs)

Fujito

With a model like this, I think it's fine if it's finished with such a neat feel. If a beautiful dial can be created with today's technology, the mix of the two is also very good.

 

Uchimura

Thank you! I'm glad to hear you say that. It seemed to me that what I've been doing and FUJITO are a good match.

 

Fujito

Yes, it's just right. I think our customers will accept it. It's true that it's full of historical backing and craftsmanship, but it's also a little light, so it's great that it's fashionable.

I've recently come to think that whether something looks good on you or not is very important when wearing something. People often tend to talk about quality and details, but of course we don't offer anything bad in that sense. However, it's a different matter from whether something looks good on you or not, and that depends on the individual.

For example, by providing several models this time and making it possible to customize the belts, I'm sure you'll be able to find one that suits you.

Uchimura

As you say, there are many different combinations, so I'm sure you'll find the style you're looking for.

Fujito

Not only watches, but also bicycles, cars, shoes, and other things you love, I think the factor of whether they look good on you is very important. There are people who push themselves too hard and drive a certain car, right? It 's better to be evaluated more objectively as "I see, that's the kind of car you would drive." It's common for people to think that something looks good on them, but be evaluated by others as "that's not like you." I think it's through repeated failures that you find the perfect item.

In the case of Uchimura-san's watch, it's fun to come across a watch that you can say "This is it, this is it for the rest of my life!", and I think that's what makes it a luxury item. It's something that you wouldn't have any problems without, right?

 

Uchimura

That's right!

Fujito

I think that whether or not something suits you is an important factor in increasing its value. The Japanese-made watches that Uchimura-san is proposing have plenty of room for improvement.

Uchimura

That expression resonated with me too. Of course, as a watch repair technician I have my own outline, but on top of that, I make suggestions with the hope that customers can enjoy choosing as freely as possible.

Fujito

There are actually things like that in secondhand clothes. The vintage A-2 flight jacket hanging on the rack is short and made of stiff leather, giving it a "Top Gun" feel, so it's a pretty difficult item to match. (laughs) Of course, there are people who say you shouldn't even touch the zipper because it will lower the value of the vintage item. But there is now a genre of people who cleverly resize this to suit the current mood and make it look cool. I can relate to that.

Uchimura

I understand that! I think the key to maintaining a balance is to respect vintage while still expressing a modern mood, in other words, to be conscious of leaving some "space."

 

Uchimura Watch Shop will celebrate its 80th anniversary next year. Three years have passed since I became the third generation owner, and I am aiming for the 100th anniversary under my generation. Could you tell us your vision for the future and any advice you have?

 

Fujito

I don't have any advice (laughs) . If there was one thing, it would be that maintaining and continuing to be healthy is the most important thing.

 

Uchimura

That's certainly true. I also saw in the article that you were featured in that you were jogging.

Fujito

I jog about once a week. I want to keep it up, so I enjoy it at a relaxed pace and try not to push myself too hard (laughs).

For example, if you come to Fukuoka like this time, you can get up early the next day at the place you stayed and go for a little ride, and it's fun because you can get to know the city!

Especially in overseas stores such as Italy and Paris, the windows are well-designed, so if you go jogging and see a window that catches your eye, try going there during the day. There are so many wonderful things. It also makes your mind clear and organized, so it's very comfortable.

Also, in our line of work, it's important that the clothes look good on you, so maintaining a good figure is important. How old was Uchimura-san?

 

Uchimura

I am 36 years old.

Fujito

You may start to feel your body weakening around the age of 40. (laughs)

Uchimura

Are you coming suddenly? (laughs)

Fujito

It's a big shock! What does that mean?! I feel like that. You know, there's something you want to do, there's something you want to make, there's something you want to convey, right? If that's what you want to do, then you want to keep going until you get there, right? I think it's a real shame that your body can't keep up before you can achieve what you want. That's all I can say. Health is something that money can't buy.

Also, the Japanese-made watches that Uchimura-san makes are attracting attention worldwide, and the number of them will continue to decrease. If we can offer repairs for them, I think we will become even busier in the future. This is just my wish, but I would like them to continue to be distributed in Japan. At the moment, foreigners are buying them up, aren't they?

 

Uchimura

Yes, China and other Asian countries are particularly dynamic.

 

Fujito

Once they are out of the country, they often don't come back . I like cars, and it seems that in the past, excellent cars manufactured in England, Italy, and other countries were brought to Japan and remained in good condition. Japan has many craftsmen who are skilled at maintaining cars, and they were able to keep them in good condition. As a result, these cars remained in good condition, but now, due to the weak yen, these cars are increasingly being taken out of the country. I think the same thing can happen in different industries. That's why I want customers to see this watch at this time.

 

Uchimura

It is true that it will be extremely difficult to find a watch of this level of quality in the next 10 or 20 years, so I hope you will take this opportunity to see it.

Fujito

If he continues to follow this rule, I think his work will inevitably continue, and since the number of people who do this is decreasing, I hope that he will do his best. I sincerely hope that I can support him in some way.

 

Uchimura

thank you!

The message behind my activities is "for people to use well-made products with peace of mind and love for a long time," so I would be happy if you could help spread that message!

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